1 - Making Fashion, Forming Bodies and Persons in Urban Senegal
Corresponding Author(s) : Kristin Kastner
Africa Development,
Vol. 43 No. 1 (2018): Africa Development: Special Issue on: (Re)making bodies – The Structures and Dynamics of Aesthetics and Aspirations in an Evolving Africa
Abstract
This article traces the interwovenness between fashion and changing conceptions of the body and bodily practices in the metropolitan area of Dakar. As a vital part of material culture as well as an expression of sociocultural and aesthetical practices, fashion plays a crucial role in constructing and negotiating identities, and the widely used concept of sañse refers to the centrality of fashion in everyday life. Despite the long history of the importance of fabrics and bodily adornment, the role of the body has often been neglected in the analysis of fashion. The article suggests that more attention should be drawn to the making and remaking of bodies since the body works as an important resource in terms of display and mobility and ties the social to the individual sphere.
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- Andrewes, J., 2005, Bodywork: Dress as Cultural Tool. Dress and Demeanor in the South of Senegal, Leiden: Brill.
- Biaye, T. K., 2001, ‘Les plaisirs de la ville: Masculinité, sexualité et féminité à Dakar (1997- 2000)’, African Studies Review, Vol 44, No 2, pp. 71-85.
- Bourdieu, P., 1980, Le Sens pratique. Paris: de Minuit.
- Bourdieu, P., 1979, La Distinction: Critique sociale du Jugement. Paris: de Minuit.
- Brooks, G. (Jr.), 1976, ‘The Signares of Saint-Louis and Goree: Women Entrepreneurs in Eighteenth Century Senegal’, in N. Hafkin and E. Bay, eds., Women in Africa, Stanford: Stanford Univ. Press.
- Buggenhagen, B., 2012, Muslim Families in Global Senegal. Money takes Care of Shame, Bloomington: Indiana Univ. Press.
- Heath, D., 1992, ‘Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban Senegal’, American Ethnologist, Vol. 19, No 1, pp 19-33.
- Kane Lo, A., 2014, De la Signare à la Diriyanké sénégalaise: Trajectoires féminines et Visions partagées, Dakar: Harmattan-Sénégal.
- Kastner, K., 2014, Zwischen Suffering und Styling. Die lange Reise nigerianischer Migrantinnen nach Europa, Berlin: Lit.
- Kirby, K., 2013, ‘Bazin riche in Dakar, Senegal: Altered Inception, Use, and Wear’, in K.T. Hansen and S.D. Madison, eds., African Dress. Fashion, Agency, Performance, London: Bloomsbury.
- Mustafa, H., 2006, ‘La Mode Dakaroise: Elegance, Transnationalism and an African Fashion Capital’, in C. Breward and D. Gilbert, eds., Fashion’s World Cities, Oxford: Berg.
- Mustafa, H., 2002, ‘Portraits of Modernity: Fashioning Selves in Dakarois Popular Photography’, in P. Landau and S. Griffin, eds., Images and Empires: Visuality in Colonial and Postcolonial Africa, Berkeley: Univ. of California Press.
- Mustafa, H., 1998, ‘Sartorial Ecumenes. African Styles in a Social and Economic Context’, in: E. van der Plas and M. Willemsen, eds., The Art of African Fashion, Trenton, NJ: Africa World Press.
- Ndiaye, L., 2015, ‘Corps de « oui », corps de « non ». Pour une socio-anthropologie de la grossesse en milieu wolof sénégalais’, Revue de Sociologie, d’Anthropologie et de Psychologie, Vol. 6, pp. 301-313.
- Ndiaye, L., 2006, ‘Les représentations sociales du corps de la femme en pays wolof sénégalais: tradition et modernité’, in A.-B. Diané et al., eds., Sociétés en Devenir. Mélanges Offerts à Boubakar Ly, Dakar: Presses Universitaires de Dakar.
- Neveu Kringelbach, H., 2013, Dance Circle. Movement, Morality and Self-fashioning in Urban Senegal, New York: Berghahn Books.
- Nyamnjoh, F., 2005, ‘Fishing in Troubled Waters: Disquettes and Thiofs in Dakar’, Africa Vol 75, No 3, pp. 295-324.
- Wacquant, L., 1995, ‘Pugs at Work: Bodily Capital and bodily Labour among professional Boxers’, Body & Society, Vol. 1, No 1, pp. 65-93.
References
Andrewes, J., 2005, Bodywork: Dress as Cultural Tool. Dress and Demeanor in the South of Senegal, Leiden: Brill.
Biaye, T. K., 2001, ‘Les plaisirs de la ville: Masculinité, sexualité et féminité à Dakar (1997- 2000)’, African Studies Review, Vol 44, No 2, pp. 71-85.
Bourdieu, P., 1980, Le Sens pratique. Paris: de Minuit.
Bourdieu, P., 1979, La Distinction: Critique sociale du Jugement. Paris: de Minuit.
Brooks, G. (Jr.), 1976, ‘The Signares of Saint-Louis and Goree: Women Entrepreneurs in Eighteenth Century Senegal’, in N. Hafkin and E. Bay, eds., Women in Africa, Stanford: Stanford Univ. Press.
Buggenhagen, B., 2012, Muslim Families in Global Senegal. Money takes Care of Shame, Bloomington: Indiana Univ. Press.
Heath, D., 1992, ‘Fashion, Anti-Fashion, and Heteroglossia in Urban Senegal’, American Ethnologist, Vol. 19, No 1, pp 19-33.
Kane Lo, A., 2014, De la Signare à la Diriyanké sénégalaise: Trajectoires féminines et Visions partagées, Dakar: Harmattan-Sénégal.
Kastner, K., 2014, Zwischen Suffering und Styling. Die lange Reise nigerianischer Migrantinnen nach Europa, Berlin: Lit.
Kirby, K., 2013, ‘Bazin riche in Dakar, Senegal: Altered Inception, Use, and Wear’, in K.T. Hansen and S.D. Madison, eds., African Dress. Fashion, Agency, Performance, London: Bloomsbury.
Mustafa, H., 2006, ‘La Mode Dakaroise: Elegance, Transnationalism and an African Fashion Capital’, in C. Breward and D. Gilbert, eds., Fashion’s World Cities, Oxford: Berg.
Mustafa, H., 2002, ‘Portraits of Modernity: Fashioning Selves in Dakarois Popular Photography’, in P. Landau and S. Griffin, eds., Images and Empires: Visuality in Colonial and Postcolonial Africa, Berkeley: Univ. of California Press.
Mustafa, H., 1998, ‘Sartorial Ecumenes. African Styles in a Social and Economic Context’, in: E. van der Plas and M. Willemsen, eds., The Art of African Fashion, Trenton, NJ: Africa World Press.
Ndiaye, L., 2015, ‘Corps de « oui », corps de « non ». Pour une socio-anthropologie de la grossesse en milieu wolof sénégalais’, Revue de Sociologie, d’Anthropologie et de Psychologie, Vol. 6, pp. 301-313.
Ndiaye, L., 2006, ‘Les représentations sociales du corps de la femme en pays wolof sénégalais: tradition et modernité’, in A.-B. Diané et al., eds., Sociétés en Devenir. Mélanges Offerts à Boubakar Ly, Dakar: Presses Universitaires de Dakar.
Neveu Kringelbach, H., 2013, Dance Circle. Movement, Morality and Self-fashioning in Urban Senegal, New York: Berghahn Books.
Nyamnjoh, F., 2005, ‘Fishing in Troubled Waters: Disquettes and Thiofs in Dakar’, Africa Vol 75, No 3, pp. 295-324.
Wacquant, L., 1995, ‘Pugs at Work: Bodily Capital and bodily Labour among professional Boxers’, Body & Society, Vol. 1, No 1, pp. 65-93.